Mathura

Last on our list of Agra touristic sights was the legendary birth place of Krishna. Krishna’s parents were imprisoned in Mathura by Kansa, brother of Krishna’s mother. Kansa knew, that his sister Dévakí will have a son which will later kill him. To avoid his fate he wanted to murder all the sons of his sister. But in the moment Krishna was born the gates of the prison opend miraculously and the guards fell asleep. Thanks to that Krisna’s parents could take him to a safe place. According to some legends they sent Krishna in a basket down the river Yamune, according to others they took him to his father’s cousin.

There is a big temple complex in the place of Krishna’s birth. Besides the temple, there are stands with souvenirs and refreshment, artificial cave and a „legend hall“ with moving pupets picturing stories from Krishna’s life. A bit of kitsch in the European eyes but that is how the Indians like it – shiny and colourful. To sum up there was not much to admire in the aesthetic terms but we enjoyed the energy of the place. You could really feel the power flowing in there.

For the lunch we went out to search for a restaurant. It wasn’t that easy. In the first one they refused to serve us anything and we still wonder whether it was because they did not like us or because they did not undestand us. We were more lucky in the second one. We got rid of the hunger but we still had one problem to cope with: we knew there was a nice place we would like to see but we had no idea how it was called.

Asking people did not help much since they either did not undestand English at all or they wouldn’t see what we mean when we ask about „something nice or interesting“ in Mathura. Finally we got some rough tips by a security guy at the temple complex.

Before getting the rickshaw we have found this place... Can you imagine the purpose of it?

Do not look for the parrots in cages :-)

Cyclorickshaws were trying to cheat us as ever – yes, for 400 Rs, I will take you! Oh, really? Do you think we do not know anything about the real prices? Finally we agreed on 100 Rs for about 10 km tour. Soon we were to regret. The rickshaw took as on the worst road ever. Stones and holes were so bad he even had to get down and push the rickshaw with us. When at the museum he asked for extra money for waiting time we got really angry and wanted to get rid of him. But he would not be happy with 30 Rs for that less than 3 km. We gave him 40 and sweared never to take a cyclorickshaw again.

How to get to the muzeum? View over the shoulder of our rickshaw. Here the road looks better than in the reality.

The museum was not very good but at least we got to talk to a guy who spoke good English and understood what we are interested in. Finally he gave us the name we needed. We left the museum and – took a cyclorickshaw. But this time I must admit the guy worked well for the money we paid him. I have no idea how he managed through the narrow streets full of pedestrians, bicycles and motorbikes. In addition a dust storm started and I could not even open my eyes, but the rickshaw still went on.

He took us to the old city. Once undoubtedly glorious the houses were covered by dust, wooden carvings badly maintained, some of the stone arcades broken. The rain started. Though better than the sand and dust we were still happy to be able to go and hide in a temple. Suddenly almost cold Mathura seemed strange and a bit hostile. How are we to get back if the weather does not improve?

Luckily it did improve in less than half an hour. No more rain but cloudy and a bit windy, pleasant temperature. Fancy a walk through the old city? What about this street to the right? Oh, there is the river!

Finally we got to the spot where we wanted to come in the first place. Colorful boats rocking at the bank, wet breeze blowing from the river, endless staircases leading to the water here and there interrupted by a wall or small tower built too close to the river Yamuna. We climbed on one of the walls and looked around the river bank. Popular as well as forgotten temples stand there one next to each other. Holy man walks up the road between some cows and dogs. Everything is sleepy, even abandoned. Only the monkeys are jumping briskly here and there.

First sight of the river bank

Colorful boats. But with no passenger seats.

Holy man among the animals at Yamuna river bank

We begin our walk alongside the river. We stride over the staircases, in the dirty sand, we climbe through the half-ruined houses. We refuse the boat for 50 Rs per person – we prefer to walk. Someone almost forces us into a temple. Here you are free to offer as much as you want! (But we did not want to come in the first place.) It is completely your choice! But when we gave him 10 Rs, the priest was not very happy. Only afterwards we found out that this was one of the most reputed temples at Mathura.

We were drawn to the pink one... but I can't remember whether to the first one or to the one in the back.

Lord and dog

We are leaving back to Agra with a feeling that we managed to experience a bit of real mystical India. Though probably not palatable for a mainstream western tourists Mathura maintains a spirit that is so difficult to find among the rushing tourists at Taj Mahal and other famous Agra sights.

Fathepur Sikri and Taj Mahal

We wake up at 6 am to go to Fathepur Sikri – small town 40 km far from Agra. Why so early? It is getting increadibly hot around noon especially this time of the year, so we want to manage as much as we can in the morning.

When we get to the bus stand at 7 am, two different people tell us, that the bus to Fathepur won’t leave before 8. Ok, let’s go to get some breakfast then. However there was nothing we would like anywhere close to the bus stand so we decided to get on the bus (which was already waiting there) and eat some bisquits.

It wasn’t even 10 minutes after we have got on the bus and it started moving! It’s around 7:15 and we are leaving the bus stand for Fatherpur Sikri.

Fathepur Sikri monument consists of a mosque, fort and a complex for wifes. It is all made out of red sand stone by Akbar about 100 years before Taj Mahal was built. Akbar abandonned Fathepur after water disappeared and he moved to Agra. However today the monument is a vibrant tourist place with abundance of souvenir sellers (among others) and the old city is a place neglected by the tourists with an authentic indian atmosphere.

View from the bus stand

In front of the mosque

Inside the holy place

Altar for offerings - fabrics and flowers. It will be later given to the poor. After having offered you can tie a small thread at the stone "window" and make 3 wishes - one for every knot.

at the fort

Goats everywhere

Followed by child seller

Kofta. The first and so far the best one. It is made from potatoes stuffed with paneer, keshu, vegetables, etc. - depending on the particular type

After having returned to Agra around 3 pm we really needed some rest before further sightseeing. The next sight for today was Idma-ud-dula (Baby Taj). The entrance fee is „only“ 10 times more than for the locals here. But to make it less pleasant for us they suspected us from shooting a video (probably they didn’t trust my DSLR to be „just“ a camera and not a video camera for which you need to pay extra). We even started reconsidering our plans for Taj Mahal tomorrow. Is it really worth the 750 Rs?

Evening was a good time to go. Both the light and the temperature were pleasant.

Even now, we are still not sure if it was worth it. Taj is beautiful, true. The surrounding gardens are beautiful and the pictures are also beautiful. Even the guide, who took us later to the shops that pay him commission, was actually nice. But the difference in the entrance fee is simply disgusting and the worst thing is that it did not finish with the price. But let me start from the beginning.

We left around 6:30 in the morning. We had payed the ridiculously exagerated entrance fee and got some „V.I.P.“ half litre of water and shoe covers, so that we do not have to take off our shoes when entering the main building (what a gifts!). We continued to a security check and there they wanted to trash our mini stativ! Not even in the wildest dream can the 15 cm plastic tripod be considered a security thread. But order is order.

By that time a local guide had started taking care of us. He was really helpful and took Petr to a safety deposit to leave the tripod there. In the meantime I managed to find out that in our astronomical entrance fee is not included audioguide. And if by any chance you would prefer an audioguide in english rather than in hindi, it will cost you 2 to 3 times more. I have never experienced anything as unfair as at Taj Mahal and other governement run monuments.

Taj Mahal did not beat the bitter taste from the fact, that they openly shave you from your money and after they do not even think about TRYING to make it up by a slighly better service (how much can cost you to provide the audiogide?). I do not regret going there but it was not an ideal experience. Especially when I realized that about one fifth of Indians, who pay 20 Rs, is equally or much more wealthy than I am, another fifth is slightly worse off and those, who are really poor most probably won’t go to visit Taj Mahal.

Tell me now: Do you really think there is a moral duty of „wealthy“ Europeans to help the „poor“ India? In India there is more than enough wealthy Indians. Let them begin to care more about their country and how it really is like. It changes my point of view when I am the only one in the office who takes public transport because unlike the others I can’t afford to pay for the autorickshaw regularly and afterwards their governement takes the tax of 500 Rs on one entrance fee because I am the wealthy tourist.

But let’s have a look at the pictures now to improve the impression :-)

I thought wearing a saari would by stylish

The whole India is little bit upside down...

...you would not believe where you have to go for a good picture.

The beautiful flowers and ornaments are not painted - it is made from semiprecious stones. 3 stones shine in the sun (black onyx, white marble and green malachit) and 3 in the moon. That is the reason for the full moon night visits of Taj Mahal. Surprisingly enough Indians pay the same money as foreigners for those.

Inside the mausoleum. Officialy you should not take pictures there... but no one seemed to care. At least I took them without the flash