Last on our list of Agra touristic sights was the legendary birth place of Krishna. Krishna’s parents were imprisoned in Mathura by Kansa, brother of Krishna’s mother. Kansa knew, that his sister Dévakí will have a son which will later kill him. To avoid his fate he wanted to murder all the sons of his sister. But in the moment Krishna was born the gates of the prison opend miraculously and the guards fell asleep. Thanks to that Krisna’s parents could take him to a safe place. According to some legends they sent Krishna in a basket down the river Yamune, according to others they took him to his father’s cousin.
There is a big temple complex in the place of Krishna’s birth. Besides the temple, there are stands with souvenirs and refreshment, artificial cave and a „legend hall“ with moving pupets picturing stories from Krishna’s life. A bit of kitsch in the European eyes but that is how the Indians like it – shiny and colourful. To sum up there was not much to admire in the aesthetic terms but we enjoyed the energy of the place. You could really feel the power flowing in there.
For the lunch we went out to search for a restaurant. It wasn’t that easy. In the first one they refused to serve us anything and we still wonder whether it was because they did not like us or because they did not undestand us. We were more lucky in the second one. We got rid of the hunger but we still had one problem to cope with: we knew there was a nice place we would like to see but we had no idea how it was called.
Asking people did not help much since they either did not undestand English at all or they wouldn’t see what we mean when we ask about „something nice or interesting“ in Mathura. Finally we got some rough tips by a security guy at the temple complex.
Before getting the rickshaw we have found this place... Can you imagine the purpose of it?
Do not look for the parrots in cages :-)
Cyclorickshaws were trying to cheat us as ever – yes, for 400 Rs, I will take you! Oh, really? Do you think we do not know anything about the real prices? Finally we agreed on 100 Rs for about 10 km tour. Soon we were to regret. The rickshaw took as on the worst road ever. Stones and holes were so bad he even had to get down and push the rickshaw with us. When at the museum he asked for extra money for waiting time we got really angry and wanted to get rid of him. But he would not be happy with 30 Rs for that less than 3 km. We gave him 40 and sweared never to take a cyclorickshaw again.
How to get to the muzeum? View over the shoulder of our rickshaw. Here the road looks better than in the reality.
The museum was not very good but at least we got to talk to a guy who spoke good English and understood what we are interested in. Finally he gave us the name we needed. We left the museum and – took a cyclorickshaw. But this time I must admit the guy worked well for the money we paid him. I have no idea how he managed through the narrow streets full of pedestrians, bicycles and motorbikes. In addition a dust storm started and I could not even open my eyes, but the rickshaw still went on.
He took us to the old city. Once undoubtedly glorious the houses were covered by dust, wooden carvings badly maintained, some of the stone arcades broken. The rain started. Though better than the sand and dust we were still happy to be able to go and hide in a temple. Suddenly almost cold Mathura seemed strange and a bit hostile. How are we to get back if the weather does not improve?
Luckily it did improve in less than half an hour. No more rain but cloudy and a bit windy, pleasant temperature. Fancy a walk through the old city? What about this street to the right? Oh, there is the river!
Finally we got to the spot where we wanted to come in the first place. Colorful boats rocking at the bank, wet breeze blowing from the river, endless staircases leading to the water here and there interrupted by a wall or small tower built too close to the river Yamuna. We climbed on one of the walls and looked around the river bank. Popular as well as forgotten temples stand there one next to each other. Holy man walks up the road between some cows and dogs. Everything is sleepy, even abandoned. Only the monkeys are jumping briskly here and there.
First sight of the river bank
Colorful boats. But with no passenger seats.
We begin our walk alongside the river. We stride over the staircases, in the dirty sand, we climbe through the half-ruined houses. We refuse the boat for 50 Rs per person – we prefer to walk. Someone almost forces us into a temple. Here you are free to offer as much as you want! (But we did not want to come in the first place.) It is completely your choice! But when we gave him 10 Rs, the priest was not very happy. Only afterwards we found out that this was one of the most reputed temples at Mathura.
We were drawn to the pink one... but I can't remember whether to the first one or to the one in the back.
Lord and dog
We are leaving back to Agra with a feeling that we managed to experience a bit of real mystical India. Though probably not palatable for a mainstream western tourists Mathura maintains a spirit that is so difficult to find among the rushing tourists at Taj Mahal and other famous Agra sights.
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